The largest part of the collection are off-the-shelf suits, which cost around 2000 euros.
The deal is expected to close in the first quarter of 2012. Brioni is too small in the financial crisis
At the end of August, it became clear that something was really going on: Brioni wanted to crush its women’s line and fired creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua. A factory is now being mothballed.
The fashion show at Milan Fashion Week on September 25th has been canceled. The legendary fashion house has done poorly and is apparently in a credit crunch. Brioni closed the 2010 financial year with a turnover of 171 million euros.
Only 70 stores worldwide
For 2011 a business volume of 190 million euros is expected. The luxury brand currently operates 74 Brioni stores worldwide, nine of them in Italy. This means that Brioni is too small to fight the big players in the market – especially since the banks are reducing their credit lines in times of the financial and debt crisis.
And perhaps asian mail bride the exuberant luxury no longer fits into the zeitgeist shaped by crises. The past few years have been marked by changes of boss and disputes between the owner families. >>
The new CEO, Francesco Pesci, announced an IPO for the next four to five years in the spring, which indicates a financial bottleneck. Around five years ago, the long-time company boss Umberto Angeloni threw in the towel in the dispute over the company strategy. Last year, his successor Andrea Perrone suddenly withdrew.
Brioni is a legend The fashion brand has a fabulous reputation. Brioni was founded in Rome in 1945 by the tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and the fashion designer Gaetano Savini. The company stood for economic miracle and Bella Figura – they realized that people wanted to get off the Second World War quickly and therefore named themselves after the Croatian luxury resort of Brijuni. On the island, in the Roaring Twenties, the European jet set relaxed with polo and golf. Accordingly, Brioni hit the nerve of the post-war era: after the arrival of proletarian communism in Yugoslavia, the longing of the rich and famous for the good old days smoldered. The figure-hugging cut is typical of Brioni, the waist is always tighter and the shoulders wider. In the exuberance of the upswing, the fashion house even used more feminine fabrics such as silk and cashmere for men. Brioni revolutionized the market in 1952 with the first men’s fashion show. In 1956 a women’s fashion collection was presented for the first time. In Hollywood in particular, Brioni quickly stood for typically Italian chic: Customers included Kirk Douglas, Henry Fonda, Clark Gable, Al Pacino, Anthony Quinn and John Wayne. But also Donald Trump, Nelson Mandela, Luciano Pavarotti, George W. Bush, Vladimir Putin and last but not least ex-Chancellor Gerhard Schröder wore Brioni. From GoldenEye to Casino Royale, the house furnished the title character James Bond. A little gimmick for Bond fans: Brioni brought a dinner jacket to Casino Royale for around 3,000 euros with the lettering on the inside "James Bond" was provided. Over-luxury for 40,000 euros
The quality is legendary: each suit is manufactured in at least 185 steps. At Brioni, seamstresses have to learn for two years before they can sew the buttonholes by hand. The customer can choose from a total of 5000 fabrics, even the inner linings are made of cashmere or baby alpaca. A lifetime service is also guaranteed. Most recently, around 1,100 employees produced almost 100,000 men’s suits annually. The largest part of the collection are off-the-peg suits, which cost around 2000 euros.
Custom-made products are available for about twice as much. Brioni also offers the very special super-luxury. For well-known personalities, the company produces super-tailored suits, which cost around 40,000 euros. While other tailors at made to measure "just" Offering pieces that consist of prefabricated parts that are then cut to size, Brioni also delivers the top class "bespoke".
Custom-made according to the customer’s wishes
This untranslatable term used by the English master tailor is derived from the fact that the special fabrics were only promised to the best customers. Bespoke today means that the suit is woven according to the buyer’s measurements from the start. It also means that the customer gets every extra wish fulfilled and that the suit is tailored to his silhouette and character. The tailors in Rome once fulfilled a Parisian businessman’s wish for a secret inner pocket for "something difficult". No questions were asked – a revolver was likely to be hidden.
The American upper class likes to identify with the British nobility. Despite the revolution against the crown and the declaration of independence of 1776, the longing for the lifestyle made in England is still strong, especially on the US east coast. Ralph Lauren has always successfully followed this trend and combined it with uncompromising quality. The fashion czar has written a typically American success story. Take a look at our photo show.
The states of the American east coast are still culturally closely interwoven with the former motherland. In the home of the revolution, in Boston, where the tea party separated from London, there are many corners that look typically English. Here the Americans have mocked "Boston Brahman" named leading families their roots, i.e. the oldest clans from the country’s political and monetary nobility.
Preppy in New England
The best universities in the USA from the unofficial Ivy League can be found in New England – Harvard, Princeton, Yale, the wonderful Dartmouth College in sleepy New Hampshire or Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore. They all belong to the Ivy League
of the old, ivy-covered, brick and marble-topped think tanks. Here memories of the English cities of Oxford or Cambridge are awakened.
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My family plays polo
And of course, especially in the sixties and seventies, when the Cold War raged and communism became more and more popular, the senior daughters and sons had to be dressed appropriately for an expensive academic career. The fashion entrepreneur Ralph Lauren quickly recognized the gap in the market: The elitist urge to distinguish itself from the rest of the country and at the same time the longing for English country life had to be served. With the polo rider on their clothes, every child in the top ten thousand could immediately signal that their family could afford the expensive sport. The emblem was also a guarantee for the best workmanship and high-quality fabrics from the start.
Nevertheless, the fashion was always casual and relaxed – just as suitable for tennis, lacrosse and golf as for the extravagant party life in the fraternities and sororities. In the university student associations, the little ones can still let off steam far away from social constraints and for the first time unsupervised by mom and dad. The wealthy customers were always neat, preppy. On this "Preppy"-Trend for the young people from the elite schools and on the long-term future topic of the American dream in general – on education – brands such as Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford are also setting. Only Ralph Lauren, with its focus on high society, is meets on summer vacation in the Hamptons and owns apartments in the Flatiron building in New York, just jumped on the lifestyle a bit earlier and more successfully.
From tie seller to boutique owner
Perhaps the secret of success lies in the origin of Ralph Lauren. He had to bite through from the very bottom right from the start and managed a career following the legendary pattern from dishwasher to millionaire. Ralph Lifshitz was born in the Bronx on October 14, 1939. His Jewish parents emigrated from the town of Pinsk in what is now Belarus in time for the Holocaust. Pinsk had belonged to Poland since 1920 and was under Soviet occupation from 1939 to 1941, and under German occupation from 1941 to 1944. The slender boy gave himself the sonorous English name Ralph Lauren at an early age. The reason for this was that he was bullied at school about the name.
On a talk show, he explained that the word shit was used all the time. Ralph Lauren probably got his sense of color from his father, a painter and house painter. He worked out the beautiful with skill: "All I had was taste." The family lived in poor conditions. Ralph Lauren worked out of school to buy suits. At school he sold ties to his classmates. For the traditional school yearbook he gave as career choice "millionaire" at. >>
Lauren lives the American dream
After finishing school, Lauren studied at City University in New York, but dropped out after two years. The irony of the story: the future billionaire never finished his business degree. From 1962 to 1964 he served in the US Army. In 1964 Lauren married his girlfriend Ricky Low-Beer and started his job as a salesman in the traditional fashion store Brooks Brothers. In 1967 Ralph Lauren acquired the rights to the Polo brand from Brooks, which until then was actually intended for polo players. In 1968 he founded the tie business Polo Fashions with the help of a $ 50,000 loan and then designed his first men’s collection, Polo Menswear Co. Soon after, the women’s collection followed.
A billionaire with the polo shirt The breakthrough came with the polo shirt. The first shirt came on the market in 1972, it was available in 24 colors and quickly became a classic. The myth grew when he was styling the clothes for the film "The Great Gatsby" took over. Business partners said of Ralph Lauren that he always finds the best people, pays them better than everyone else, which is why they are the most excited. The rest is history: Ralph Lauren quickly became the New Darling of the New York fashion scene. Stars like Michael Bloomberg, Dustin Hoffman, Robert De Niro, Sarah Jessica Parker and even his colleague Donna Karan met at his parties. In 1987, Ralph Lauren beat cancer. After a brain tumor, he was completely healed. In June 1997, Polo Ralph Lauren went to Wall Street. The car collector is one of the richest people in the world
Today, Ralph Lauren fashion is one of the classic evergreens. Suitable for leisure and business casual, high quality, durable and elegant. The lifestyle brand Polo Ralph Lauren is sold in more than 280 countries and is one of the most successful fashion labels of all time. In 2011, Forbes estimated the designer’s net worth at $ 5.8 billion. This makes the avid collector of fine cars number 173 in the list of the richest people in the world. Take a look at the stages in the designer’s life in our photo show.
Finally a ray of light between all the gray, black and brown that has been hanging in stores for a few weeks. The trend color red really spruces up the 2013/14 winter fashion.
Layered looks are the trend in spring and autumn fashion
Photo series with 7 pictures
Winter fashion 2013/14: noble red tones
You cut the best figure this winter with fashion in a rich burgundy, a deep burgundy or a warm tomato red. Anything that is not too gaudy is allowed. Noble materials like cashmere give your outfit an elegant touch.